Monday, January 30, 2012

Replacement power adapter for 23" Apple Cinema Display

So I got ahold of a 23" Apple Cinema Display LCD monitor. One Problem: No power adapter! So after some extensive internet searches for new or used adapters (models A1097 90w or A1098 150w) I came to the conclusion that these are either impossible to get, or exorbitantly overpriced in the area of $150+. Also, it turns out these adapters are highly prone to failure. (Don't bother ordering from ebay sources in Asia. I tried several and despite saying they had hundreds in stock, none of them actually did.)

I figured there had to be a better and cheaper alternative.

The monitor itself requires 24 volts, 3.7 amps, and 90 watts. (The 30" Cinema Display requires 150 watts and may require more amperage.) Based on that requirement I ordered a generic 24 volt 6 amp 145 watt regulated switching power supply off of ebay. This one cost me $27.59 from seller yallstore:



The monitor has one cable coming from the back that includes a DVI connector, USB and Firewire connectors for the ports on the back, and the proprietary power connector that goes to the A1097 power adapter. The first thing to do is to cut off the stupid apple power connector:



Remove about an inch and a half of the rubber sheathing and the grounding mesh. Inside there are 3 wires: black, red, and a tiny grey wire. The grey wire is a 5v wire presumably to give power to the USB and Firewire ports on the back of the monitor. We are not going to worry about this one; just move it out the way or cut it off.
Strip the black and red wires back about a centimeter. Connect the black wire to the V- and the red wire to the V+ on the back of the power supply.


Next you'll need a regular power cable like any PC would use. Cut off the female end. Strip back a centimeter on each of the 3 wires inside. Attach the black wire to the Hot or Line (L), the white wire to Neutral (N), and the green wire to the Ground connection.

Lastly, BEFORE YOU PLUG IT IN, be sure the power supply is switched to 110v AC. Things would get smoky otherwise!

So, now you are ready. Attach the DVI plug to the PC, power on the monitor, and here you go:



A little splicing and for under $30 your monitor is working. The generic adapter will run cooler and be less prone to failure due to the metal mesh design, so you should get much longer life than you would from the plastic-encased apple product.










98 comments:

  1. This is brilliant, I have not tried it but thanks a lot.

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  2. Perfect! I was racking my brain all day looking for an alternative power solution. Having spent $50 on 20' Cinema in perfect condition, I didn't want to spend $100+ on a power adapter. Thanks for the write up.

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  3. Thanks tons, for the info and the link, just ordered one. - Will

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  4. hello your information is great id like to know in detail how you came to your calculation as i have 2 Apple Model A1083 Cinema HD 30 Inch Widescreen Display without power supplies and id like to do the same for them as you did for your 23" thanks in advance

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  5. So by pier sixing the little grey wire the firewire and usb ports are no functional?

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  6. Yeah the will not work anymore but who needs it? Im so glad i found this post. I got the screen for free because someone else didnt want to pay for power supply

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  7. Absolutely perfect! Thanks - saved me big $$$$

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  8. This is awesome. Just ordered it myself but let me ask, do the firewire and usb port still work or does getting rid of the grey wire disable it completely. Might be a dumb question.

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  9. is there a way to connect the grey wire so the usb ports are functional?

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  10. I never tried to hook up the grey wire. Not worth the trouble. Presumably you'd need another lower voltage power supply.

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  11. Hi, can i use the original mac power cable instead of what u mentioned the one that PC would use? thanks :)

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  12. Hi, how switch the power supply to 220v AC? Thanks

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  13. amazing - did exactly as you described, and saved me from having a dead monitor.

    @Mario Leal: switch is under the metal top - you have to unscrew the two screws (one in front, one in back).

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  14. Excellente!!! I appreciate the knowledge, being looking to salvage my 20" cinema display and I follow your advised and is working great. Thank you for sharing knowledge.

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  15. Is there a way to get the USB working? If I plug the grey cable into the power supply will it fry the computer or monitor?

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  16. What I mean is can I plug the grey cable into the power supply +V terminal and get USB ports on the back of the monitor working without frying anything?

    Jeff, Please let me know?

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  17. This comment has been removed by a blog administrator.

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  18. So on this - the power supply price actually went down a little - just picked up the one from the link above for $20. The cinema display was $19.99 at my local Goodwill store, sans power supply. Tested with a power supply from another monitor...works like a champ, no dead pixels. Can't wait to get this new power supply in and hook it up!!! Thanks for posting

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    Replies
    1. Confirmed. Works nicely. Also can confirm that it runs much cooler than I expected.

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  19. Just ordered the power supply. Looking forward giving tie a try. I'll let you know how it goes.

    Thanks!

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    Replies
    1. Power Supply is working great as is the monitor.
      Kudos for the excellent work.

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  20. It doesnt work for me, the LED on the right cornier just blink 3 times, and I am so stress with it now

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    1. doesnt that mean that the monitor has power but has no imput signal? try plugging the monitor into the mac and see if it fires up!

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  21. Thinking about doing the same - but going a step further and getting a dual output supply, to power the USB too. Like this:
    http://www.aliexpress.com/item/dual-output-power-supply-200w-5V-24V-10A-20A-6A-power-suply-D-200B-meanwell-ac/894974946.html

    What do you think, good plan?

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    Replies
    1. Or is the spare wire not related to the USB?
      Can anyone who's done this confirm whether the USB ports work or not?

      Delete
  22. I managed to bring my display to life following your instructions. THANK YOU JEFF!

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  23. Hello and thank you so much for this post! I live in France and just ordered one but I just realized that in France it is 220V so does it work?

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  24. it should work, you can switch inside the power supply from 110 Volt to 220 Volt. Good luck!

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  25. Proper THANK YOU goes to Jeff! The man posted a link for the hardware and instructions with good pics, so even a noob like me can handle the repair. Now my 23" Cinema Display is happy again for $30, instead of paying $130+ for some sketchy refurb from goodness-knows-where. Thank you kind sir for helping my old hardware live on!

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  26. Didn't work... Any suggestions? Power to monitor is good but no image...

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  27. Thanks for the great info. I was a little stumped as to how much of the power cable to cut. Your pics helped a great deal. I am presently waiting for the power supply that i ordered to get my ACD 23" working again. Will let you know how it goes.

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  28. Well isn't it ironic that I posted today and mentioned my ACD. Guess what? I am happy as a pig in s...t. I did everything as mentioned and it worked like a charm. I couldn't believe it. This is an expensive piece for someone to get rid of it just because they had a power supply problem. Well it's my gain, right? I enjoy salvaging items that people get rid of, so that I can bring them back to life. I've been doing this for years now and it still never ceases to amaze me. Good luck to all you guys and gals out there.

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  29. Purchased 23" monitor at Goodwill for $19.99 missing power supply. I purchased Mean Well 150 watt 24 DC power supply for $ 30 and connected as described. Thank You!!!!! Monitor works great and saved me big bucks!

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  30. Well, I ordered the power supply and hooked up my monitor. It worked great for 24 hours. Then the power supply kind of exploded with a loud pop and a spark and it even blew the breaker in the house. I guess for another 20 bucks I can try again and see if it destroyed the monitor… since I cut the power cord I can't use an Apple power supply any more. Maybe I should look for a less-cheap power supply with the same functionality?

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  31. Has anyone tried cracking open the apple power supply (A1097), stripping out a) the small circuit board used to hold the monitor connector and b) the wiring to AC plug an then wiring that into the 24 volt 6 amp 145 watt regulated switching power supply? IF this works it would save from cutting the wires coming from the monitor and the preserve the function of the USB and Firewire ports on the back of the monitor) Anyone? Bueller?

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  32. Yes, I took apart the old power supply and snipped out the connector with the wires attached to a very small circuit board. I wired the connector to the new power supply and put electrical tape around the circuit board and connector. Plugged in the monitor connector and everything powered up just fine.

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    1. On that mini PCB, the red wire is "P6"; black is "P8"; and there's a green ground wire "P10". Do you need to use the ground wire on the mini PCB? Is the ground connection from the power supply cable take care of the mini PCB? I'm going to cut the cable otherwise. Thanks and A++ on the article and comments.

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  33. Hey guys interesting thread but it seems like using jeff's method disables the usb connection which is necessary to control the monitor set up brightness and calibration from your computer. Correct me if I am wrong? If you can't control the brightness from your computer I guess that is no big deal because there are brightness controls on the monitor itself. but if you are using any calibration software even basic stuff you will not be able to make it work. Not sure if by cutting that powe cable and eliminating the original mac power supply if any other things are disabled as well like choosing monitor resolutions etc...Again correct me if I am on the wrong track about what else that usb cable does It seems like it is not such a great idea to cut that power cable coming from your monitor if you want full functionality from your monitor. If it is only brightness then no big deal becuse they are on the side of the screen itself I think but what about other set up functions, those are necessary not sure if it is the usb connector that enables them. Some others on this thread suggested a few methods around this like a dual output supply. I have a 23 inch display with no original power supply unit would love to use it but sadly with all the new technology out there seems barely worth replacing the power supply unless you can get one really cheap which is why I really appreciated jeff's post but would love to have more info about keeping that USB connector working. Also not sure with all the newer Mac's that use thunderbolt for example would be effected by cutting that cord and loosing USB doing so could create other problems if you try to use your monitor with a newer mac. Would love to have a little more info about these issues
    Thanks

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  34. OK. I have done a lot of googling and reading about this exact topic. I have recently repaired a 20" Apple Cinema Display A1081 myself using a spare laptop PSU. It works great and the picture looks really good. I have been testing it for two weeks with no issues. BTW, Bueller says, the USB ports work fine for me with the grey wire disconnected altogether.

    As far as the little grey wire goes, I have found two theories and have done some tests myself. First theory is that it is the power for the internal USB hub. The second theory is that it is a "sense wire" so the monitor can sense the model or working state of the Apple PSU. I will explain my finding, but the short answer is it looks like the USB hub is not affected by this wire.

    First of all, I powered the monitor with the black and red wires alone for two weeks (grey wire disconnected). Unexpectedly the grey wire already had 5.1vDC coming from the monitor when tested. The monitor works just fine along with the USB ports. I do not have a firewire device here to test those ports sadly, so I never plugged that dongle in. Next I tested the 2 USB ports with 2 bus-powered external laptop-size portable hard drive enclosures. They use a lot of USB amperage and would be a decent test. It could power one fine, but with 2 connected the drives would continuously try to spin up and then reset themselves in a loop. The whole time the grey wire held constant at 5.1vDC coming from the monitor while the USB hub devices kept resetting.

    Second I tried testing the monitor with only 5vDC being sent on the grey wire and the ground hooked to the black wire. No 24vDC power was sent to the red wire and the ACD hub gave off no power at all. Next, the UDB dongle was plugged into my mac and grey got 5vDC and ACD hub still gave off no power. Next the red wire got its 24vDC, grey got 5vDC and the USB dongle was disconnected the the ACD hub still gave off no power. The red wire has to get 24vDC and the USB dongle must both recieve power for the devices to see power despite the grey wire receiving 5vDC the entire time.

    Lastly I tested the ACD with the red wire receiving 24vDC and grey getting 5vDC while both were grounded to black. The USB dongle was connected to the mac and the ports functioned just as before. It could power and talk to one USB portable hard drive but not two at the same time.

    In conclusion I found that the grey wire seems to have no effect on the USB hub of the 20" Apple Cinema Display. I am heavily leaning toward the conclusion that this is a sense wire or something else all together. I will just leave it disconnected because everything works just fine. Well, from what I can tell anyway.

    My $.02

    Snake

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  35. Worked like a charm! I found my 23" Cinema on the side of the road, and the adapter stopped working pretty soon (probably why they gave it away lol). Now I have an awesome monitor for $30.
    Thank you Jeff!

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  36. Anyone using their Cinema Display 23 on a Windows machine? I hacked mine to use an ebay power supply as in this article, and the display and USB hub both work, but the brightness controller software (http://www.holstschumacher.dk/p/brightness-controller.html) doesn't see it at all (I get nothing when I try to gather the HID information). Brightness works fine on my Mac Pro.

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  37. hi, I have the same problem with 20" inch model, I have a question, i read that i have to set the power supply to 110v ac, i live in italy and we have 220v ac, so I have to set te power supply to 110v or 220V? If i set to 110v, the cinema display simply not work or maybe blow up?

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    1. Set it to 220v. With the 110v setting the power supply will be putting out 48v, which will probably fry the display.

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  38. I have a 30" ACD. Does anyone have the power supply specs for it. Will this power supply work for it?

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  39. http://www.ebay.com/itm/360W-12V-dc-30A-Switching-Regulated-Power-Supply-/331069179865?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4d1542c7d9

    This has more amps. Will it work with the 30"ACD?

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    1. This comment has been removed by the author.

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  40. No, you need 24V. That supply is 12V. If you read the original blog posting, it says that the 30 inch Cinema Display requires 150 watts. A little high school physics (I=P/V) will tell you that you need at least 6.25 amps at that voltage

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  41. This auction has one (8.3A/24V) for $30:
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/350853417921

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  42. I did everything on the instructions but the little white dot on the right bottom on the display just turns on but no image, it stays black... :( any suggestions anyone? bought the power supply, connected everything as instructed, switched it to 110v, and no luck... thanks!

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  43. Excellent fix. I used a laptop adaptor that is rated at only 2A, but it works fine with my 23" display. Costs less than the device you used, too.

    Thanks for sharing this...it saved me some aggravation.

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    Replies
    1. Could you please the specs of your 2A laptop adaptor? I got some spare ones but I'm afraid to mess my ACD with the wrong electricity input :(

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    2. Hi,
      have the same issue, would love to hear about the specs of your 2A laptop adaptor
      thank you

      Delete
  44. Thank you so much for these directions. Ordered a power supply from eBay for $18.95 and I now have a working 23" Cinema Display again. I also used crimp-on spade connectors on the monitor cable and made a pigtail coming off the power supply that uses the opposite connectors for easy disconnection. USB hub still works fine, have not tested Firewire yet as I don't use it very often.

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  45. This comment has been removed by the author.

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  46. This comment has been removed by a blog administrator.

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    1. Really? Looks like a SPAM link to me, loser.

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    2. oops, nm! :embarrasedface:

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  47. Hi mates, I just got the 23" ACD without the power brick, I tested with the seller's power brick and it works perfectly. I was looking on ebay and found this 96W Universal Power Supply and this looks a lot nicer (and safer for kids) than the massive Regulated Switching Power Supply.
    Output power: 96w
    Adjustable Output Voltage:12v/15v/16v/18v/19v/20v/24v
    Output 4A Max
    In theory this could handle the power for the 23" ACD nicely but I not very sure about it's quality (durable, stable...) comparing the Regulated Switching Power Supply.

    Here are the two alternatives that I'm about to get on ebay:

    **Universal 96W Power Supply http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-Good-Useful-Universal-96W-Laptop-AC-Power-adapter-with-US-EU-AU-Plug-K0E1-/231073499938

    LED Strip Light Switch Power Supply http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/400469998223?var=670086258147

    Has anyone had any experience with the Universal Power Supply. I'd to hear from your opinion.
    Thanks

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    Replies
    1. You can see from my post above yours, the universal power supply is way to go. I went with 145W, just to make sure I'm not over stressing the PS and it is running cooler than original Apple. Your choice seems OK to me, it's simile to the one I used.

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    2. Forgot to add, just follow my method at http://malusjuice.blogspot.ca

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  48. Hey Cuong, the 96W Universal Power Supply is not working for me :( I can see the white LED light power up, but there is nothing else work. The three buttons at the right edge are not working either. When I plug the my Macbook Pro, it's not recognised any signal from the Apple monitor and the Apple monitor screen remain black. My is ACD 23" that requires 90W power adapter. My guess is the 96W power supply is too weak to power the Apple screen up?? Anyone?

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  49. My guess is that this universal adapter is not putting out as much power as it claims. I'm using an adapter rated at 5 amps (120W) with a 23".

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  50. Kramers smooth DVI cable television is designed for hidden and also international calls installs. This goes thru your walls, under the floor covering, close to corners and also guiding your amusement system easily. The actual smooth style of the cabling renders these individuals inconspicuous.
    http://www.dueltek.com.au/collections/dvi-cables

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  51. hello for the people that have made this work on a 30" apple cinema display and its been continuously working with no problems please tell me the specific power supply and or laptop power supply if used you used please include full specs on power supply and any thing that would be helpful to know while or before the operation in reference to the 30" apple cinema display this would be helpful to me and others as i have 2 that need power supplies and the information I've found online so far is for the 20" and 23" as far as giving conformation it worked on those size displays and continues to work i can not find this for the 30" with conformation of working continuously and specific specifications of adapters used so if you can please help by provide your experience and knowledge and it will be very helpful and appreciated by me and others thanks

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  52. You're great! I tried your method and used as power supply a Delta Electronics PMT-24V150W1AA. My Apple Cinema Display 30' is working again! Thanks a lot :)

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    Replies
    1. Philipp, where did you purchase this Delta PSU? I can't find it to purchase anywhere online (I am in the US). I purchased a generic DC 24V 8.33A 200W PSU and although it powers my 30" monitor it will continue to flicker. It does not do that with the original genuine Apple adapter I've been using to test. I checked the voltage on the generic 24V 200W and it reads with a voltmeter it is only outputting 23.5V, is it possible that is the problem?

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  53. Another satisfied customer, thanks a bunch

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  54. Thank you very much for a very easy fix! FYI to others out there, this power supply is very cheap, the first one I received had short. I don't trust it enough to leave it on unsupervised, but do like it enough to make one for a friend with the same Apple CD 24. Thanks again. Sue

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  55. Glad so many have been able to use this fix. I can say mine has been running continuously and flawlessly since I first powered it up over 2 and a half years ago.
    Regarding the grey wire - the USB and firewire on the back of my monitor work fine. I've had a fujitsu document scanner hooked up there for about 6 months.
    Sorry I don't have answers for every issue. I honestly haven't checked my old blog in quite a while, and I'm no electrical genius. I just took help I found elsewhere and tried it out, then compiled my solution for others to find and use.

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  56. The grey wire is only for sensing purposes. With this wire and several resistors in the different orginal power supplies, the ACD detects if the right power supply is connected. Fortunately, the 150W power supply for the 30" ACD does not have any resistors at all. This is why you can leave the grey wire disconnected, as long as your replacement power supply supports the requested current (about 4A for the 23" and 6.5A for the 30" display)

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  57. I have the 30" display, I don't want to cut the end of the original cable so I have opened it up and found the internal power connector. Everything I have read so far indicates there should be 3 wires, 1 red, 1 black and 1 grey. However I see a 5 pin socket with 4 black wires and 1 thin grey running from left to right [black, black, grey, black black]. Does anybody know how I would wire this into one of these alternative power supplies?

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    Replies
    1. I have found how its wired
      [+24.5VDC|-24.5VDC|SENSE|-24.5VDC|+24.5VDC]
      One other question though, I am in the UK, should I still switch switch to 110v or keep it at 220v? Thanks.

      Delete
  58. I got my new power supply this morning, I changed it to 11v and wired it up to a plug. I didn't want to connect the monitor until I knew it was working. When i turned on the power the supply went pop, I assume it was from the fuse. Does anybody know what might have gone wrong? I am in the UK, should it have been on 220v? Thanks.

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  59. Yes, it should have been set to 220v. Hope it WAS just the fuse, otherwise the power supply is likely dead.

    No offence, but if you don't even know your mains voltage, you shouldn't be trying a hack like this.

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    Replies
    1. Yeah I thought it should have been 220v, i did ask about that but nobody responded. The fuse is soldered onto the board so I can't easily change it. I think I will just get another one as they are pretty cheap and try it at 220v, it just means waiting again... Thanks

      Delete
    2. If you read back in this blog, you'll see that the same question was asked and answered several months ago.

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    3. Oh balls, I read pretty much all the comments too but must have missed that. Thanks again.

      Delete
  60. Hi there....this is from Spain....

    I´ve found a 24V DC 150W 6A POWER SUPPLY. I do not understand quite well why you´re using a 145w supply for a 23"/90w. monitor then I wonder if my 23" will work OK with the 150 watts supply...

    Thanks in advance....

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  61. No, you don't need that powerful a power supply. For the 23, 4 amps (96 watts) is plenty. Using a more powerful supply won't hurt, though; it will only draw what it needs (it's spec'ed at max 90 watts, but will use less if you turn the brightness down).

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  62. This comment has been removed by the author.

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    1. Thanks a lot Frogstein....I´ll buy this one because the seller is close to my zone in Spain ( by the way 220v too...like the above guy from England)....and now that I know that there is no problem in having more WATTS and AMPS from the source....

      http://www.ebay.es/itm/FUENTE-DE-ALIMENTACIoN-CONMUTADA-24V-DC-150W-6A-POWER-SUPPLY-TIRAS-LED-/171711367487?

      I´ll let you know if I can finally fix my 23"Apple Display...

      cross my fingers :-)

      Delete
  63. Hi there!..
    Another successful monitor working from Spain. Today I´ve just mounted my 150w 24v & 6.5 Amp to the red and black apple cable and my 23" apple cinema display came back to live!!!....Thanks guys for all the advices...great post!

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  64. A million thanks isn't enough....!!!
    The screen is alive again + all USB/Firewire ports behind.

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  65. Just a note on the grey wire: I'm almost 100% positive that this is a sense wire so the ACD can determine what sort of power supply it's connected to, then display an error (in the form of a flashing LED) if the power supply isn't powerful enough. In addition to my hacked 23", I have a 30" and a second 23" with the original power supply. Even though I run the 30" with the brightness all the way down, where it uses less than 70 watts (as measured with a Kill-o-watt power meter), it wouldn't work with the 95 watt power supply from the 23". Luckily for us, an absence of signal on the grey wire doesn't disable the monitor (perhaps no signal is what the 150 watt power supply, which should work with any one of these, puts out).

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  66. i'm currently attempting this on a 22" cinema that only has a adc coming out of the back. Also there are two sets of power wires. Wondering if the display will power on without being connected as i'm in the process of doing a direct dvi solder and was testing the screen but only the white power light comes on.

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  67. Not sure if anyone is still reading these but I would love a reply!
    Jeff uses a 24v power supply, however the original Apple supplied power brick provides 24.5v... is 24v ok or has he done something to adjust?
    Thanks in advance

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  68. Just did this and it worked perfectly, now got a great 23 inch apple display for 50 quid! Thanks a lot.

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  69. Just did this and works like a charm! thank you for posting this solution!

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  70. I have the original 30 inch Apple cinema display. And for the second or is it the 3rd time now that the Apple power adapter suddenly died. It's $200.00 or more at the apple store! I followed this blog and BINGO! It just works! I did not cut any original wires. I used the original apple power supply interface and use connectors. I wish I could post the pictures but I am STOKE! The power supply is $25.00 at eBay from china. Thanks Jeff! How can I post photos on your blog?

    If anybody want to contact me, totoy1964@gmail.com.

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  71. This comment has been removed by the author.

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  72. Hi there, thanks for this very useful info, I tried exactly how you said it but after plugging it in, the monitor still wont power up, not even the light indicator in the monitor is lighting up as if no electricity is coming to it. any suggestion that you can give on how to fix it? thanks in advance

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  73. Wow very nice post its all information is really great.

    Welding Power Adapter

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  74. This worked perfectly for me. BIG Thanks to Jeff!

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