So I got ahold of a 23" Apple Cinema Display LCD monitor. One Problem: No power adapter! So after some extensive internet searches for new or used adapters (models A1097 90w or A1098 150w) I came to the conclusion that these are either impossible to get, or exorbitantly overpriced in the area of $150+. Also, it turns out these adapters are highly prone to failure. (Don't bother ordering from ebay sources in Asia. I tried several and despite saying they had hundreds in stock, none of them actually did.)
I figured there had to be a better and cheaper alternative.
The monitor itself requires 24 volts, 3.7 amps, and 90 watts. (The 30" Cinema Display requires 150 watts and may require more amperage.) Based on that requirement I ordered a generic 24 volt 6 amp 145 watt regulated switching power supply off of ebay. This one cost me $27.59 from seller yallstore:
The monitor has one cable coming from the back that includes a DVI connector, USB and Firewire connectors for the ports on the back, and the proprietary power connector that goes to the A1097 power adapter. The first thing to do is to cut off the stupid apple power connector:
Remove about an inch and a half of the rubber sheathing and the grounding mesh. Inside there are 3 wires: black, red, and a tiny grey wire. The grey wire is a 5v wire presumably to give power to the USB and Firewire ports on the back of the monitor. We are not going to worry about this one; just move it out the way or cut it off.
Strip the black and red wires back about a centimeter. Connect the black wire to the V- and the red wire to the V+ on the back of the power supply.
Next you'll need a regular power cable like any PC would use. Cut off the female end. Strip back a centimeter on each of the 3 wires inside. Attach the black wire to the Hot or Line (L), the white wire to Neutral (N), and the green wire to the Ground connection.
Lastly, BEFORE YOU PLUG IT IN, be sure the power supply is switched to 110v AC. Things would get smoky otherwise!
So, now you are ready. Attach the DVI plug to the PC, power on the monitor, and here you go:
A little splicing and for under $30 your monitor is working. The generic adapter will run cooler and be less prone to failure due to the metal mesh design, so you should get much longer life than you would from the plastic-encased apple product.
